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A Guide to Clarity in Bespoke Jewellery
You're designing a bespoke engagement ring—a symbol of your unique love. It makes sense that you'd want the diamond at its heart to be as perfect as possible. This brings us to the third of our 4Cs: Clarity.
Diamonds are a marvel of nature, formed deep within the earth under intense heat and pressure. This process isn't perfect, and nearly all diamonds have "birthmarks." These are known as:
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Inclusions: Internal characteristics (like tiny crystals or feathers)
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Blemishes: External characteristics (like scratches or nicks on the surface)
Diamond Clarity is the measure of the absence of these inclusions and blemishes.
The GIA Clarity Scale Explained
Gemologists use a 10x magnification loupe to assign a clarity grade. The scale ranges from "Flawless" (the rarest) to "Included" (the most common).
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FL (Flawless): No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
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IF (Internally Flawless): No inclusions, only minor blemishes visible under 10x.
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VVS1 / VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included): Inclusions are so tiny they are extremely difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x.
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VS1 / VS2 (Very Slightly Included): Inclusions are minor and still difficult to see under 10x.
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SI1 / SI2 (Slightly Included): Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification.
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I1 / I2 / I3 (Included): Inclusions are obvious under 10x and may be visible to the naked eye, potentially affecting transparency and brilliance.
The Griffin & Co. Philosophy on Clarity
Here is the most important piece of advice we can give you: You are not buying a diamond for a laboratory. You are buying it to be worn, loved, and admired in the real world.
While "Flawless" sounds perfect, the premium price it commands is often unnecessary. Our focus at Griffin & Co. is on finding you a stunning "eye-clean" diamond.
An "eye-clean" diamond has no inclusions visible to the naked, untrained eye. In our experience, this is the sweet spot of value and beauty. A diamond graded VS1 or VS2 is almost always eye-clean. Many SI1 diamonds are also perfectly eye-clean, offering the best value of all. We hand-select every SI-grade diamond to ensure its inclusions are not visible face-up.
How Clarity Impacts Your Bespoke Ring Design
The diamond shape you choose will influence the clarity grade you need.
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Brilliant Cuts (Round, Oval, Cushion): These cuts have many facets designed to maximise sparkle. This sparkle is fantastic at hiding small inclusions, making an SI1 or VS2 grade an excellent choice.
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Step Cuts (Emerald, Asscher): These cuts are like a "hall of mirrors." Their long, elegant facets are transparent, meaning any inclusion will be more obvious. For these shapes, we recommend choosing a VS2 or higher to ensure a beautifully clean look.
See for Yourself
Don't get lost trying to find a "perfect" spec sheet. The best way to choose a diamond is to see it. At Griffin & Co., we encourage you to look at diamonds yourself. We will show you the difference between a VVS1 and an SI1, allowing you to see that the "eye-clean" standard is all that matters for a breathtaking ring.
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